Hong Kong: A Symphony of Old and New
March 1, 2000
The first impression of Hong Kong isn't its skyline, but its weather—a misty, persistent rain that greeted me the moment I landed. The airport was a modern marvel, a stark contrast to the first glimpse of the city itself. From the shuttle window, I watched old, crumbling buildings stand shoulder to shoulder with gleaming new skyscrapers, a visual contradiction that defines Hong Kong.
My hotel room, located in the bustling Kowloon Market area off Nathan Road, was a lesson in urban efficiency. The room and bed were shockingly small, a clear sign that here, every square foot is a luxury. Stepping out onto Nathan Road was an assault on the senses. The crowds were unlike anything I'd ever seen—a river of people, each one carrying shopping bags, moving past an endless parade of malls. The sheer density of retail space made shopping districts back home feel like small-town curiosities.
Wandering deeper into the city's heart, I found Chungking Mansion, a place of beautiful decay. This ancient, crumbling high-rise was a chaotic microcosm of Hong Kong itself, crammed with budget hotels and tiny shops, all bustling with a huge crowd.
Then I saw it. From the Hong Kong Cultural and Art Center, the skyline across the bay was a breathtaking spectacle. The view was so expansive, so densely packed with skyscrapers, that it couldn't be captured in a single panoramic shot. Every inch of land had been meticulously engineered for height.
My evening concluded at the Yau Ma Tei Night Market, a vibrant hub of street-side commerce. Vendors hawked everything from designer knock-offs to pirated software. The quality of the fakes was impressive; you had to look closely to spot the difference.
The next day's journey began with a ride on the iconic Star Ferry across the harbor to Hong Kong Island. There, I boarded the Peak Tram, a true engineering marvel. It felt less like a tram and more like a roller coaster, climbing near-vertical inclines with sharp, stomach-dropping curves. At the top of Victoria Peak, I enjoyed dinner at a restaurant while gazing down at the city's twinkling lights—a view that was, simply put, to die for.
One of the most memorable moments was meeting a man who had left his family on the mainland for work. He invited me into his home for a snack, and his kindness was a powerful reminder of the warmth and hospitality of the Chinese people.
March 2, 2000
My second day was dedicated to exploring Hong Kong Island. The city’s public transportation is a masterclass in efficiency, with double-decker buses, trains, and ferries weaving through the city like clockwork. The sheer number of double-decker buses was astounding, as was the number of luxury cars. I didn't spot a single Ford or GM—every other car seemed to be a Mercedes or BMW.
I took the Central and Market Street Escalator, the world's longest outdoor covered escalator system, which transported me up the mountainside and offered a glimpse into old Hong Kong. Amidst the urban sprawl, I found a tranquil escape in the botanical gardens and zoo, a green oasis in a concrete jungle.
For a vegetarian like me, finding good food can sometimes be a challenge, but Hong Kong delivered. I had an excellent meal at a Chinese restaurant called the Soup Box.
While I had the chance to cross into mainland China, I decided against it. A place like Shenzhen and Beijing deserved their own separate trip. It's funny to think that Beijing had a whopping 268 McDonald's restaurants at the time, while Hong Kong was a hub for countless 7-Elevens.
The city is a testament to the combined ingenuity of the British and Chinese, a truly lively and dynamic blend of cultures.
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